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This is a free-form project, not based on any prototype. The goal
is to make the gondola look like a 19th century or very early 20th century
car.
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The floor attaches to the body with molded in
clips. The weight
fits between the floor and
body and is held in place by raised circles
on the underside of the body.
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Parts List
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- (1) Body-HO AHM 50' Outside Braced Gondola
- (1 pr.) Trucks-Tichey Train Group Archbar #3002
- (5) Ladders-Tichey Train Group #3033
- (1) Brake Wheel / Staff (.015 wire x .960) / (2)Rachet/Pawl- Tichey Train Group #3003.
- (2) Truck Screws- 4-40 x 3/8" Phillips flat head
- (1 pr) Couplers- Kadee #148
- (2) Coupler Pad-.040 x.390 x .540 (styrene)
- (2) End Sills-.060 x .125 x 1.320 (styrene strip)
- (2) Buffer Block- .060 x .060 x .375 (styrene strip)
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Measuring and Chopping the Body
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The car is measured with a scale rule and is not quite 50'.
The deep center section measures 19' 6" inside of the vertical braces at the lowest part.
Chopping out the center section will leave the car length close to 30'.
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Marking off the cut lines and making the cuts.
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Cementing the Body
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Body halves were lightly filed and test fit.
Once the fit was good, the body
halves were cemented together using Testors styrene cement.
Though care was taken, the center stakes
are not the same; one is wide and the other is narrow.
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Overall, the joints look good.
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Gluing the Floor
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Left: the bearing with the brake detail will fit in the middle of the car.
Right: the ends of the weights were cut off and CA glued to the body.
Then the
ends of the floors are cut and cemented in.
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I did not measure well and gaps occurred. I filled them in with strip styrene.
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Body Work Finale
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I usually use Kadee 501 Arch Bar Trucks but since my finances wouldn't allow
a purchase of ten or more, I bought Tichey Train Group Arch Bar Trucks. They roll great but require a
bit of work to be assembled. I bought 10 pr for $20 on eBay. Part #3035.
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I found this red primer very close to the color of the gondola body.
When I sprayed it onto the pallet, I had to add Testors Paint Thinner
to keep the primer from drying.
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The cast on brake housing was ground down and the area painted.
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I brush painted the floor with a light coat
of Testors Flat Gray.
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The body was set on the trucks and a Kadee HO coupler height gauge
used to check coupler height. The coupler needs to mount on the bottom
edge of the end. The endsills were cemented in flush and the coupler
plates added so the couplers will mount flat.
The buffer block was cemented on even with the endsill and centered over the
coupler pocket. See the photo below at the orange arrow.
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Final Details
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One of the ladders was shortened and glued on. I used two of the
rachet/pawl castings from the Tichey brake wheel package. I cut
the brake staff to scale 7'. The top rachet/pawl is facing up and the
one on the bottom is facing down.
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Modify the other four ladders as shown and glue onto the sides at the ends.
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A bottom view of completed car. Coupler installed. Trucks fit
great and the brake detail snaps into the truck.
The car is light, but rolls well.
JH
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Copyright © Jack Hess 2026
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