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Building a Stripwood Cutter
I had a commercial stripwood cutter for years and I never liked it. The board it was mounted on was thin and eventually distorted. The chopping arm set-up was made of plastic and flexed from center. The threaded inserts that held the knob screws to hold the stops fell out. Then the aluminum straight edge was not tight against the board and thin styrene strips slid under it.

I now want another stripwood cutter and looking over commercially available models, I decided to build my own. As with a lot of first time builds, I am finding flaws in my initial design concept but have been able to fix things even though it ain't purdy.

Initial Components
major components zero center 24 inch ruler
The major components: the board (7" x 24"), arm/pivot, the styrene backing sheets and the zero center 24" ruler. A notch was cut in the ruler at the center point to allow the end of the razor blade to pass.

Planning the Build
laying out major components I have laid out the board, the .040 styrene pieces, and the constructed arm/pivot to see how they fit up.
detail sof cutting arm .040 styrene shim for cutting arm base
The arm is made from a piece of 3/16" bar stock, a 2" long 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" angle, a stainless steel 1 1/4" bolt, two washers, and a nylon insert nut. Three wood screws hold it to the board. A .040 shim is added so the razor blade sets level on the styrene.
ruler overhanging board edge other end of ruler on board
After checking the square of the ruler to the arm, I found that it hangs over the edge of the board. I will add a small piece of wood to protect the ruler.

Modifying Razor Blades
use razor knife to loosening stiffener use razor knife to loosening stiffener
stiffener removed Removing the stiffener from the razor blade.
comparison of stock and modified blade using Dremel with cutting wheel to enlarge edge notches
checking blade fit on cutting handle screws
Cutting the hold slots larger to fit on the #6 screws in the arm. Be sure to cut at the top of the notch and not on the bottom as the bottom determinines if the blade sets level.

A cut blade is tested to make sure it fits. The hole in this end of the arm has no function. 		Storing extra blades on cutter board
Storing the extra blades on the cutter. The flathead screws do not allow the arm/pivot to move from its position.

The Build
major components assembled The arm/pivot has been attached. The styrene glued with CA glue. The ruler is squared and has been CA glued at the cutting point and then large head screws installed.
thumbscrew on handle for lockdown A 1/4" thumbscrew and nut has been installed to allow the arm to lock down when in storage. Back off the screw and use the nut to hold it unlocked.
extra piece added to front of board The added front board to protect the ruler edge.
first wood strips cut Test strips cut.

Adding the Clamps
ready to install clamps test fitting clamps
I ordered small hold down clamps and their location is being determined.
marking out the clamp mount locations strip cutter completed
I reinstalled the styrene I cut out and marked locations for the clamps at 2 1/2", 5", 8", and 11".
I made a stop out of .060 X .500 styrene strip. Clamps installed and stripwood cutter is done.
- JH -
Copyright © Jack Hess 2022